On the rich and intricate world beneath the waves we surf in the Netherlands and the importance to preserve the unique marine ecosystem of the North Sea.
Disclaimer: how it exactly looks, we can never say with certainty. We are human, and we cannot reproduce the experience of a fish, much as I would like to. Moreover, only ninety percent of what happens beneath the water surface has not even been accurately mapped. Fortunately, in 2021, there are many documentaries to watch about that remaining 10%. They show me that I wasn't even far off. The North Sea is alive, kicking, and colorful. It must be lively there because no less than 220 species of fish 'live' there. From stingrays to sea bass, seals, whales, and dolphins. Not to mention the birds, crabs, lobsters, shellfish, and other mollusks. And the beautiful thing is: with 57,000 km² – more than sixty times the size of the Veluwe – the Dutch part of the North Sea is our largest natural area.
What is essential for me to know - in case I ever want to spot a fish near my surfboard - is where all the fish species live in the North Sea. We're not talking about habitats like on land, but depths and water layers. On average, the North Sea is 94 meters deep, so plenty of personal space. Let's start at the bottom. The majority of the seabed consists of sand and mud. It serves as both the residence and daily dinner for a lot of critters. Think of mussels and oysters, mud shrimps, cockles, clams, lugworms, sandworms, and threadworms. They burrow into the seabed by eating their way through it. You'll also find most species of sole, plaice, and rays on the bottom. Codfish, too, ventures into the deep. Slim chances that I'll ever spot the species after which I'm named (Kotvis) alive and in the wild.
However, not everywhere on the seabed is so rare. Closer to England, you find complete underwater forests where you encounter plants with rubbery leaves up to two meters high. These plants - also known as kelp - grow like trees in the sea, reaching towards the sunlight. Thousands of ship and airplane wrecks, like true time capsules, are scattered on the North Sea floor, along with spectacular underwater ravines. As you move closer to the surface, you find herrings and mackerels. They live in the upper water layer, usually in large schools consisting of millions of fish. A side note: how fish move is actually fascinating. They swarm, they shuffle along the bottom, they float. Especially when you realize that water, essentially, does not move, and a fish can move three-dimensionally: up, down, forward, backward. Some fish are swift and athletic, while others are clumsy and slow. Fish that live in schools use the speed of others to move. Jellyfish don't even move; they simply drift along with the currents. Another way of life.
There are also fish that believe they have the right to move in both the depths and the surfaces. The dangerous kings and queens of the aquatic realm. In our own North Sea, there are a whopping nine species of sharks: from the small, common dogfish to occasionally even the giant basking shark, the second-largest fish in the world. At nine meters long, it glides through the water with a certain dignity and composure. Fortunately, it's more interested in plankton than in human limbs, unlike the more tropical shark species. There is, however, a common factor that all these creatures share, and that is that they are saltwater creatures. As a fish, you have to be special to live in the North Sea. So, never throw a goldfish into the North Sea; it will dry out and not survive. A tuna is also not a good idea; they swell up and explode in the water. Perhaps obvious, but still worth mentioning.
It's not very surprising that I found the North Sea dark and boring as a child. It appears that way from the land because the North Sea is known for its industrial value. It is one of the busiest seas in the world, a place where every square centimeter is used at least threefold. Hundreds of ships crisscross the North Sea every day. Fishermen catch their fish. Oil and gas are drilled. Sand is extracted. Wind farms emerge from the water. From the coast, it seems that the waters have primarily been an economic zone for years. Once, our underwater nature was much richer. Think of dolphins, whales, and even more sharks. Unfortunately, few people are aware of this because just before the Second World War, many species disappeared. And it continues to be the case. In the period from 1990 to 2015 alone, the Living Planet Index (LPI) of the North Sea has decreased by 30 percent. The reason for this is evident: overfishing. About thirty species are commercially fished, and not even for our own consumption. Of the North Sea fish brought ashore in the Netherlands, 90% is exported. Because this has been happening consistently for years, it has had significant consequences for underwater life.
It's by now a cliché but it's the truth. Little will remain of this underwater world if nothing changes. A healthy sea is not only important for these creatures but also for us. With the massive currents – from the tropics to the poles – oceans and seas are the engine behind essential global systems. Because, it's not the tropical rainforest, but the plankton in our sea that is the primary supplier of oxygen. For our drinking water, weather, climate, much of our food, and even the air we breathe, we depend on the sea. The North Sea has a long history of determining which company, institution, country, or ruler has the right to use its waters. You can't build walls on the North Sea. This makes nature conservation not so straightforward. Fortunately, ecologists have a positive note. The North Sea is known for its resilience. There is one thing marine animals excel at, and that is reproducing in large quantities. Fish lay thousands of eggs, shellfish like oysters even millions. Ecologists foresee a relatively quick recovery period if we can find a way to let the sea be more at peace.
By the way, we witnessed this live last summer. It was breeding season, and at the Surfana surf school in Bloemendaal, we encountered a massive invasion of tiny baby jellyfish. Back then, I found it annoying; now, I think: go out there, jellyfish, reproduce and don't let yourself be defeated. You are important. Pretend as if I and all other humans don't exist. And fortunately, since 2020, a good policy has been introduced that tries to pursue this. In the 'North Sea Agreement,' the government, environmental organizations, fisheries, defense, and other stakeholders have made agreements to truly leave the seabed in peace. Don't want to take my word for it? I understand, because I'm just writing how I imagine it. For an impression of the richness of nature in the North Sea, take a look at the trailer of 'The Wonders of the North Sea.'
This article is written in collaboration with and for the online magazine of Surfana Collective. Images are made by Maarten Zwetsloot.
House Of Narrative in conversation with professor Daniel Barber, Chair of Architecture History and Theory at TU Eindhoven.
On House Of Narrative delving into the archives of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs to uncover untold stories about the Netherlands' role in international development over the decades.
In conversation with glasser Ismail Bouhali on surfing as a storied tradition in Morocco.
